Highlights are bright and contours are dark. Use bronzer or darker eyeshadows (in the crease) to create depth or contour, and use illuminators, highlighting pencils, etc. to brighten up the face for the highlight areas. It will make a huge difference!
I thought it was time to update the nose contouring info as I’ve changed it up a bit! (in addition to the nose contouring this image is a good comparison of deer in headlights VS mirror face/zoolander blue steel. Not sure which one is better…) In middle.